Ketchikan – The Gateway to Alaska.

Before this trip I had never heard of Ketchikan AK – pop 14500; the fourth largest city in Alaska; Salmon capital of the state.

I was sadly ignorant. During the course of our day in the city we spoke to a number of locals but two in particular gave me really good personal insights. The first was a gentleman from Great Neck, NY who moved here and opened a fine art business. We bought a lovely painted butterfly from him. He didn’t miss New York and in fact continues to consult there on restaurant concept and design and has opened one recently in Westchester Cty. The second was also from New York, had worked at St Vincents Hospital and moved here 35 years ago. He was running a curio store.

Both talked about shutting up shop on Friday for the winter. Both enjoyed the wonderful way of life. The one man loves fishing and hunting – he says he can go out and catch his quota of salmon or halibut simply with a rod and reel every day and has a boat and pots for Dungeness Crab. The hunting is for deer and again there is a quota for the season.

The town is small; its impact on the wilderness and ocean slight and the forest is pristine and the water crystal clear. For someone who loves nature and the wild this is really lovely. I was also mistaken in my notion of the weather – it is Pacific Maritime in climate – like Seattle except even more rain – they measure it in feet here.

So the forests are green; wood is widely used for construction and the houses are on wooden stilts.

Ketchikan was originally settled by the Tingit people as a summer fishing camp. The plentiful salmon attracted a white man named Snow who set up and operated a salmon saltery here in 1883. Not long after in 1885 salmon cannery interests from Oregon sent a man here to buy up land and set up canneries around which the town developed. The usual sequence of events followed – discovery of minerals inland – gold and copper - required a mining supply center; then need for timber – particularly spruce – led to a logging and pulp industry. Again, following the cycle elsewhere, all these industries gradually failed or were regulated out of existence and Ketchikan today depends on the tourist trade (picture a town of 14500 people that, for example today – a quiet day – receives three cruise ships ie 7500 tourists!!).

We spent the day walking about town and picked on some of the cute and quirky things we saw.

Beautiful mosaic art on the lampposts

A working boat that is a modified, old and rusty converted landing craft – a la Saving Private Ryan.

Pedestrian crossing guards at all the intersections to prevent the (many) tourists being injured by the (occasional) traffic.

Fur stores that sold the wild – shown here and wonderful – a fur covered Jock Strap

Creek street – across the Ketchikan Creek. The street actually an elevated walkway lined by houses some of which were taverns, others brothels in the old days – now all shops. A funicular railway up the mountain. The creek itself filled with salmon, seals dining on them, seagulls dining on the bits and rapids that the salmon must ascend to spawn.

A politically incorrect Native Alaskan fraternity / lodge on Main street

A shuttle bus to the global nemesis – WalMart for which the locals lined up!

As we sailed away towards Juneau we pass island after island, green forested and empty of development that remind me that we really must be at the last American frontier. Those of you out there that would enjoy this kind of rough innocence and beauty – this might be the time to take the opportunity – we have a horrible way of spoiling such a place.

The Inside Passage………

Today was our day at sea prior to reaching Alaska (which is 460 miles from Vancouver). The route we take is called the Inside Passage - protected by its geography from the ocean waves and swells and the effects of strong winds. Glaciers carved out these inlets, canyons and fjords millennia ago and the result is the beautiful rugged, remote British Columbia coastline we have followed since leaving port.

If you looked at a map you would see that Vancouver Island forms the Westward boundary of the passage, from there smaller boats would be able to traverse channels north but larger ship such as ours enter open sea in the Hecate Strait then finally we are again protected to the West by Queen Charlotte Islands.

The first 200 miles of the inside passage were traversed last night while we were sleeping so sadly we missed the narrowest and most picturesque sights – Georgia Strait; the Seymour Narrows and Johnstone Strait. These are also the most dangerous stretches with tidal shifts of 20 feet forcing the ocean through the narrows with currents of up to 20 mph creating whirlpools that could (and did) wreck small vessels.

When we woke up this morning we were emerging from the protection of Vancouver Island and were hit by gale force winds and 16 foot swells. It was quite something to feel the ship rocking and rolling (and the number of passengers at formal dinner tonight was substantially reduced as a result). We sat in the ‘skywalker lounge’ up on deck 18 during the storm – it is quiet and has a lovely 360 degree view so we could watch the waves hitting the bow of the ship and our pitching; then the huge wake we created and the resulting spray flying as high up as the bridge.

Soon things quietened down and this evening we are snugly protected by Queen Charlotte!!

One thing that the weather did not dampen was the enthusiastic shopping exhibited by passengers – this is a view of the atrium and you can see the crowds wandering about and the tremendous interest created by a sale of t-shirts. 

Think of this as another inside passage with great turbulence!!!

Tomorrow we are at Ketchikan – the Gateway to Alaska – and tonight our watches move back one hour as we head towards the International Dateline.

‘till then!

A long days leaving

The Diamond Princess was due to leave at 4.30pm yet the instructions we received started us off much earlier than that.

First, the luggage for pick-up and transportation to the ship – to meet us once again in the cabin – needed to be inside the door of our hotel room at 8.00am. we remain a bit paranoid so we keep carry on bags with us “just in case’ this bag goes missing in the 1 mile trip to the ship. I pity the person who must schlepp this big red case - it weighs 59lbs (as the officious West Jet lady told us when she billed for the 9lbs overweight) and must contain many vital things (like the ships anchor).

Then we must meet at the Princess assembly room between 8.00 and 9.30 – here we meet our fellow passengers  for the first time. Interestingly, a large contingent from England. They have a long flight to Vancouver so many have been here for days. Also a number of them recognized each other. This is definitely a repeat business business. The point of the meeting is to certify that we have no communicable illnesses – especially the ones that make the news all the time, check our passports and give us our cruise cards.

Pick-up downstairs was at 10am. As we were waiting so the disembarking passengers streamed off the buses into the hotel. They had a ball. Wonderful experience. Shopping was great – 75% off – yayyy (for some). Many had done the side trips – Denali / Mt McKinley. They were all wearing anoraks. Oops. Among the 59lbs in the red bag, no anoraks. Hmm. Alaska. Hmm cold? Duuuuuh! We’ll definitely dress in layers. Bunch of wimps.

Bus loads us and leaves on time for Canada Place and the cruise ship terminal. It’s the end of the season for Alaska so only two ships in dock – Holland America Zuiderdam is the other. Usually four in dock. I cant imagine what usually must be like. We were 4000 plus people moving in lines through check-in – passport and boarding card; security – no shoes off or cavity searches; then US immigration (we’re going from Canada to the US). We zipped through all this because US citizens had a separate line and were wayyyy in the minority. Then had a short wait – again in a small group because our frequent sailor status is Platinum after the world cruise – and we were on board first by 11.30!!!!

First thing of course is to hook up my computer and get signed up for internet – status gives me 500 free minutes; then unpack the carry-on; then the red bag arrives, we give the captain the anchor so he has one just in case, and unpack that. Med, our steward must bring more hangers. Not enough, Med must get more hangers. Finally sorted. Everything in its place for the next three weeks. Except the anoraks.

Because the ship had to lay on supplies for Asia as well as Alaska we were able to hang out on deck and watch seaplane after seaplane take off;

then watch the Zuiderdam sail out (and a seaplane take off) 

then finally, 90 min late, we set sail (so to speak). It seems the captain already had an anchor – we saw it being raised. Oh well.

A bit of a mixup over the dinner table caused some anxiety. We are on the Cruise with my buddy Jay Buehler (and his mom and sister) and he has a college roommate (Kurt – who farms in el Centro CA) on board with his wife – so seven at a table for six. All sorted and we had our first meal on the Diamond Princess as we sailed into the sunset……..

Vancouver – what might have been…..?

In 1985, one of the four berelowitzii (as our tribe was affectionately known) was definitely going to leave Cincinnati for pastures anew. Many and varied were the reasons but suffice it to say academic contentment and advancement were definitely high on the priority list. Three of the tribe were less excited about the plan. Regardless, jobs were pursued and three viable opportunities presented themselves – one in New Haven (great prestige, no moola, voted down), one in Stony Brook, NY (great potential, good moola – the eventual choice) and the third in Vancouver at the University of British Columbia (probably the best job mix but a geographic step too far for the voting majority).

Looking at Vancouver now, as a visitor, I have to say it has an awful lot going for it. No regrets about the career decision (?) but I must say the Pacific Northwest is a lovely part of the world. Gorgeous geography – a beautiful waterfront city backed by majestic mountains – you can ski in the morning on Grouse Mountain and sail in the bay in the afternoon (I obviously can do neither so bah humbug to that).

Van City was also voted one of the best places to live in North America but is clearly not one of the most affordable – property is very expensive. Provincial and Federal Taxes (12%) are added to the cost of everything (even stamps) which compounds the livability issue. When I looked at housing in 1985 prices were high for someone from Cincinnati but not astronomical – it was around that time however that there was a major influx of Chinese from Hong Kong – to beat the transfer of the Island from British to Chinese rule. Since then there has been major property development with high-rise buildings ringing the waterfront.

Vancouver has a population of 2.3 million and is remarkably diverse. There is a major Asian influence and presence in the city.

The exploration (late 1700s) and settlement of the area follows a fairly standard Northwest pattern. Trading – in this case the North West Company; then logging and milling; the arrival of the railroad (the Canadian Pacific Railroad); Gold rush locally in the mid-1800s; in the Klondike in the late 1800s created the need for supplies, stores and merchants and of course the development of a large seaport.

We had the opportunity today to go on a tour of Victoria but elected instead to explore downtown Vancouver. We are staying at the Four Seasons Hotel (sounds swish but the Courtyard Marriott in Edmonton offered better facilities). Had breakfast at a Tim Hortons – don’t ask. Then took a circular path around downtown. Merle liked the manhole covers....

Walked from the hotel to the waterfront through the Heritage District stopping off at Canada Place and the Cruise terminal (from where we will be sailing tomorrow). Bought a couple of bottles of wine to stock up the cabin.

Then followed the waterfront to Gastown – the original settlement at the edge of the sawmills and named for a saloon owner “gassy” Jack Deighton. A fun area to wander and shop – also lots of lovely eating places.

Finally walked away from the water towards Chinatown. 

A different view of Vancouver here. Lots of  “street people,” folks panhandling and vagrant types. Came across a concert in a blocked off street where all these characters had congregated to listen to Rock and Roll and have a hot meal from a kitchen that had been set up for them. It was quite a scene!!

Chinatown itself was fascinating. Old buildings well-preserved, each with a societal purpose. Surname association headquarters for example – one for the Lee, one for Chin, Wing and Chun; The benevolent association and the freemasons buildings – groups that provided assistance and protection to Chinese workers;

There was also a lovely classical Chinese garden in honor of Sun Yat Sen the father of modern China. An amazing contrast between this area of tranquility and the big city just beyond.

The Chinese community have made an enormous contribution to Vancouver and there are multiple reminders ranging from this Monument to Canadian Chinese to a plaque memorializing those that served during WW II.

Finally, had to visit the Jimi Hendrix Shrine – though a bit sad and ramshackle – this was the building of Vies Fried Chicken where his Grandma Nora worked and where the late great Jimi grew up, played and busked. 

Tomorrow morning we board ship and off we go!!!

Edmonton, Alberta. What can one say?

A visit to Edmonton for me is very much a pilgrimage – to the familial matriarch and my young bro.

As such it was an appropriate way to start off the voyage of Pacific Rim discovery – got the maternal blessing – Doris B is 95 vigorous years and sharp as a tack. Also still has a great head of hair. 

Moved to Edmonton to be in the same hemisphere as her three sons (one of whom happened to live here) with the added advantage of the Canadian Healthcare system

Alberta is oil-rich so has escaped the worst of the bad times. This has been good for the local economy – oil money supports the Heritage Foundation – so the local University has powerful and prestigious biomedical research (think pancreatic islet transplant for diabetes); also no local taxes.

A pilgrimage to Edmonton must include a visit to the West Edmonton Mall – a huge expanse of shopping and entertainment that was the prequel for Mall of America; the Dubai unbelievability and the new example under development in NJ.

At the Mall, in fact dead center, is an ice-skating rink. In the spirit of pilgrimage – Wayne Gretzky – Edmonton Oilers – duuuuuh – we saw this young boy going through his routine with his coach. He’s maybe 5. His coach was tough. But he was a trooper and a future star!!! 

After his workout he’s back to being just a little boy again with Mom.

Cant do a pilgrimage without a temple of some sort; a place where our spiritual needs are catered to and we leave small offerings to global deities……….

Finally. Just an FYI. The BEST Indian buffet on the planet is at the New Asian Village: 17507, 100 ave., Edmonton.

Watch this space

Its time for our next adventure ...........   on the Diamond Princess to new discoveries along the pacific rim.
Here's the plan:- First visit Edmonton and the family; then September 17th departure from Vancouver - to Alaska (Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Anchorage), a few days at sea tracking the Aleutian land bridge, then light touches in Vladivostok; Sapporo, Japan; Pusan, South Korea; and China (Tsingtao, Dalian, and finally Beijing). the second leg of this extravaganza has unfortunately been cancelled (was to have included Vietnam, Thailand and Singapore) - work had priority even during retirement!!!!. 
Sadly the fun ends for this chapter on October 11th. please join us as we sail along into the sunset